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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.